Summary. From the 5th-century priests were distinguished by their dress, but exactly what Chad’s dress was in the 7th-century is unknown. It is often presumed to be a simple garment. He could have had a front tonsure and becoming a bishop wore a distinctive pectoral cross. His later depictions in elaborate medieval garments deny his simplicity and humility.
There was an expectation in the
early church that priests wear garments that were decent, white and clean;[1] it was seen as appropriate
for handling the sacraments. In the 2nd-century mention was made of a thin,
sleeved, upper tunic worn by deacons in the church in Rome.[2] The tunic was originally
made of wool which would have irritated the skin and by the 3rd-century it was
a linen vestment. From the 5th-century the church regulated priests should be
dressed distinctly. They had to wear a tunic known as an alb,[3] which extended down to the
feet.[4] Covering this was a round
garment called a chasuble[5] with a hole in the centre
to pass the head through. It extended down to the lower body and in time became
highly decorated. It had developed from the casula, meaning a ‘little
house,’ which was a similar garment worn by high status, ancient Romans. The earliest
written mention of the chasuble as a liturgical vestment comes in a letter
written by St Germain of Paris, late 6th-century. Shoes stayed much like the
shoe of the Romans; a flat leather sole with laces or straps to wrap around the
foot.
St Ambrose mosaic,
5th-century, in the chapel of San Vittore in the basilica of St Ambrose in
Milan. Note the chasuble is loose fitting and without sleeves to allow free
movement of the arms. Below it is the alb down to near the feet. Note also the
simple leather shoes. The mosaic shows Ambrose wearing an extra upper tunic
known as a dalmatic which began to appear in the 5th-century.
The Roman church adopted a stole
for priests around the 7th-century, but there are many theories as to the origin
of the stole and whether it appeared earlier in some form. It was a narrow band
of silk worn around the neck and draped to the bottom of the alb. If it crossed
over at the front it signified a priest and if it extended straight downwards
it showed a bishop.
John the
Evangelist in the Book of Mulling or Moling, late-8th or early 9th-century.
folio 81v. Note the crossover stole, chasuble and alb. Shoes were no longer a
plain sole with straps.
Chad
Planché[6] believed the clergy of the
9th and 10th centuries dressed similarly to the laity except when
saying Mass. He asserted clergy in the 8th century were forbidden to wear
bright colours or valuable fabrics. He also asserted that the clergy wore linen
stockings. This is the notion the dress was simple and usually informal. In
contrast drawings in the St Chad’s Gospels, early 8th-century, show Luke and Mark
in some kind of elaborate priestly dress and Matthew having the same in the
Book of Durrow, late 7th-century.
Luke and Mark in St Chad’s Gospels.
Matthew in
the Book of Durrow, folio 21v.
AI generated image of a 7th century priest wearing an alb, amice, and chasuble. An amice was a simple scarf of white linen or wool, worn under the alb. Priests with long hair could put the amice on like a shawl to cover their heads, put on all their estments, then push the amice back around the neck
.
Al generted image of a 7th-century monk wearing a simple woollen tunic and hooded cowl, with no decorative vestments. A barefoot or sandal-clad appearance reflected humility and detachment from worldly life.
Chad in the
7th-century might have worn an undergarment like an alb made of linen and have it
covered with a dalmatic-type garment, possibly made of wool. Chad was trained
in the Celtic (Ionian) theology of early Lindisfarne, Iona and Northern Ireland
monasteries and their dress is uncertain. Most images of ‘Celtic priests’ are
like modern Druids. It is known their tonsure was across the front of the head
and this appearance was shown by Matthew in The Book of Durrow. Chad could have
worn a pectoral cross, see the post ‘Cross for a bishop of Mercia,’ and it is surprising
this is rarely shown in artwork. From early 7th-century the pope sent a gift of
a pallium or dalmatic to bishops to signify their office. The pallium was a
narrow, circular, woollen band with a short piece hanging down the front and another
down the back. It was decorated with six black crosses. It is not known if Chad
ever received one after his late consecration into the Roman church.
AI generated image of a 7th-century bishop with a front tonsure and a pectoral cross. This image makes Chad to be more a Celtic monk in his appearance. It is uncertain whether beards were normal.
AI generated
image of a 7th-century bishop with a top tonsure and pectoral cross. This image
makes Chad appear to be more like later Early Medieval bishops.
Chad in modern dress
Statues and stained-glass
depictions of Chad inevitably show an appearance much like a modern bishop.
Even his plain staff becomes a crozier. Gloves appeared in the 9th-century, a
mitre in the 10th,[7]
liturgical shoes and stockings in the 11th, a processional cope in the 11th and
a surplice, a short alb, in the 12th-century. The change of liturgical colours
through the year, reflected in the appearance of the chasuble, were listed in
the Sarum rite in medieval times.[8] It is very likely
Lichfield followed this practice.[9]
Chad from
the left, statue on the west front, side of the north transept door, at
Lastingham church, at St Chad’s Lichfield, statue at the southeast side of the
Close.
[1]
37th canon of Hyppolytus, 4th-century, and St Jerome in his commentary on
Ezekiel 44, 19, (414).
[2]
In the Liber Pontificalis the garment was described by Pope
Sylvester, 314–335.
[3]
Alb comes from album meaning white.
[5]
It originated from a Spanish poncho, that is, a large cape with a hole for the
head to go through, hanging in folds around the body.
[6]
J. R. Planché, A Cyclopaedia of
Costume or Dictionary of Dress, Including Notices of Contemporaneous Fashions
on the Continent: A general chronological history of the costumes of the
principal countries of Europe, from the commencement of the Christian era to
the accession of George the Third. Vol. 2. (London: 1879).
[7]
The pointed shape of the mitre signifies the tongues of fire appearing on the
apostles at Pentecost. Acts 2, 1–3. The two parts that comprise the mitre are
said to represent the two natures of Christ, human and divine. The two hanging bands,
lappets, on the back are said to represent the New and Old Testament.
[8]
Never officially approved by the Church of England.
[9]
The 1345–6 Sacrist’s Roll listed many chasubles. The list included: ten
chasubles, six of red samite (heavy silk) said to be fairly good with two
richly embroidered. One of dark blue samite and the other of green samite. One was
decorated with escallops and the other with flowers. Also, six chasubles
tolerably good. Also, one chasuble of cloth which good King Edward IV had
given, Also, six ordinary chasubles. Also, one chasuble of baldekin (rich silk),
with the alb, amice and stole embroidered with diverse shields. Also, one
chasuble of samite, with tunicles and dalmatics of light blue sindon (thin
linen muslin). Also, one chasuble with two tunicles of dark blue samite.